Friday, February 20, 2015

The Historical Regatta of Venice

 Today: Lots of boats.

Every year on September's first Sunday there's the so called regata storica taking place in Venice.
It's one of the biggest annual events in the city and it has a long tradition: Even the very word "regatta" has its origin here.

And this year I happened to be around at the proper time, quite accurately one month after leaving home by bike. Two other tavelers in Montagnana said it's best to secure a spot a few hours before the race starts, so I did.
The regatta's venue is the southern part of Venice's Canal Grande, a huge channel that meanders across the city, looking kind of like a reverse "S" from above. Before noon I started looking for a convenient place. I wanted the sun more or less behind me and I didn't want to walk too far with my bicycle. Because that's quite a hassle: Apart from a small part in the west all of the city is purely pedestrian area, so the numerous bridges with their steps aren't designed for any kinds of wheels.
Eventually I went for the area around Academy Bridge in southern Venice, viewing from the south shore should be kind of nice.

On the Academy Bridge, overlooking the channel.

Yeah, that looked okay. Hey, why not just stay up here? Must be a stunning view later. And that idea seemed legitimate, since slowly but surely other curious onlookers flocked around and if a police officer passed by they didn't say anything. At most there were bewildered looks on their faces, I guess there aren't many idiots who seriously haul a fully packed bicycle all the way to this place.
However, actually it wasn't that much of a good idea after all: About an hour before the start some security came by to shoo all gazers away. So apparently staying up here isn't allowed after all... Which also meant I had to look for a new place in the last minute. Now, that all the shores were jam-packed with people already. But well, if you really want, you'll find something.

The lower steps were too wet for most people, but there still was one spot left that was halfway dry. And since the water level kept declining for the next few hours I had no reason to worry.
By the way: If one has enough money, they can also just secure a seat on one of the few tribunes a few weeks prior. I was quite satisfied here, though.

Looking over to the Academy Bridge from my seat. Yeah, at the moment there are still millions of people, but in movement all the time. You're still allowed to cross over, but not to stop.
Right next to me a Venetian parked his boat, that's another convenient place to watch from...

Before the sporty part begins there's a pompuos parade first: Lots of historic boasts with crews dressed up in Venetian style of the 15th century. Unfortunately they went by too fast, but I have some proper photos of their way back at the end of the article.
The corso is followed by representants for participating municipalities around the lagoon.


A party boat for Jesolo.

Once that's done, the races will begin. Always nine teams compete against each other, supported by their cheering fans who sometimes watch from their windows. All accompanied by (suspectedly) historical music.
During that part all bridges leading across the channel have to be cleared:

Uhm, yeah. I should have noticed that sign earlier.

And here we go: The first of overall four runs is the regata of youths, boys between 14 and 18. Their two man boats are named Pupparini.

Next up is the women's regatta, also in teams of two. They're on the move in historic fishing boats called Mascarete. (Thanks, German Wikipedia...) 

And number two is the regatta of men in six man boats (Caorline). With united forces you can achieve quite some speed!

Between the runs there was always enough time to be bored for a while or to have a little look around instead. Here I found that the music actually is not (only) coming out of the speakers, but there was a band in gondoliere outfits playing behind me all along.


For the final run, being the regatta of men in Gondolini for two, I found me another spot to watch.

 There are alwas television crews and ambulance boats accompanying the actual contestants.

Then - to bring everything to a close - they had a corso of all the historic boats again, this time on their way back and accompanied by gondolieres and Venetians in their motorboats. Since security had magically disappeared from the bridge for some reason (it still wasn't 19:30) I had the chance to take some photos from above.








Last but not least have a pink boat full of women and... a bearded guy.

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